A server can make or break your impression of a restaurant. And I will be the first to admit that, if the food at Copper Chimney had missed the mark, I’d still probably go back — just to be the recipient of our waiter’s winning smile and overall optimism.
Lucky for us, the authentic Indian cuisine equalled the service in terms of both quality and proficiency. There’s nothing unusual about the room of cream and burgundy hues. Frames give traditional colourful Indian fabrics an upscale edge, matched by the criss-cross of linens on tables and the professionalism in service.
Characteristic for an Indian restaurant, the long menu divides into protein and non-protein groups.
From 14 appetizers comes the likes of paneer tikka, vegetable samosa, amritsari fish and murg malai kebab.
Quality matches quantity in four very large vegetable pakoras with tamarind chutney (for just $3.25). These handheld minicakes make a real impact with their assemblies of grated potato, onion, spinach and seasonings under a light, expertly fried chickpea batter.
Aloo gobi ($9.95) generates smiling nods through mouthfuls, as well, but this time with the kitchen’s skilled slow-burn spicing that adds complexity to soft cauliflower florets and potato pieces. Fenugreek gives butter chicken ($11.95) its distinctive taste, but the tender chicken morsels and rich sauce of tomato and butter make this curry memorable.
Another recommendable dish is lamb pasanda ($11.95), although the intensity of the curry of cream, cashews and saffron has drowned out the lambiness of the tender bites of meat. Five different kinds of naan — plain, butter, garlic, rosemary and cheese — are available.
Every mango lassi is different! Copper Chimney’s version scores pretty high, although my personal preference favours a thicker rendition. Still, it’s refreshing and sweet and a little bit creamy.
2050 Avenue Rd., 647-436-2538, $50 Dinner for two
